All Starling frames are made from carbon steel, until I start making stainless frames; rust is a potential issue...
However, one of the benefits of a brazed frame over a TIG joined frame is that only small breather holes are required and these can be sealed after the joint is made. This means that for the top tube, down tube and chain and seat stays, the inside of the tube is sealed from the atmosphere. The small amount of air inside the tube will allow a tiny bit of rusting to occur, but once the air is used up, rusting will stop.
Therefore, this leaves the seat tube, head tube and bottom bracket which are open to the air. The seat tube has Framesaver rust protection sprayed inside after powdercoating. Head tubes and bottom brackets require a good layer of grease to repel rusting.
All external surfaces are powdercoated or painted. The only exception being the various holes where tapping or sizing after powdercoating means a small edge of bare metal may be present. A good layer of grease is applied at these locations to stop any rusting.
So, what do I need to do?
On all steel frames it a good idea to remove the seatpost from time to time (every three months) and regrease the inside of the seat tube. A little squirt of a frame protection down the seat tube would do any harm either, but is not a necessity.
Head tube and bottom brackets internal surfaces should be regreased.
Any bare metal surfaces at frame holes; dropouts, shock bolt holes, chainguide mounting, ISCG holes, seat clamp, should be well greased.
Do I need to worry?
Nope! Things take a long time to rust, and if you follow the simple steps above, all will be fine and you can ride you Starling for many years to come.
Some of the early Starling frames didn’t have the top or downtubes sealed. However, for these frames a good spray of Framesaver was put inside the tubes, so there will be be no issue.